Ringatoto, East Ridge 1+, Tongarirro NP

After a week of gale Easterlies, rain and being stuck inside, we were suitably impressed by the great weather turned on for our Saturday climbing trip to Ruapehu.

Chris and I drove up to the Tukino Mountain Road on the East side of Ruapehu after work on Friday. In the dark and gusty winds, we walked an hour and a bit into Rangipo hut, to catch a few hours shut eye before starting early the next morning.

Dawn at Rangipo Hut

Saturday morning dawned calm and clear, but as we climbed away from the sheltered area around the hut, the wind steadily increased

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The first half of the 1000m height gain from the hut was just a stroll on a broad ridge. We had some awesome views into the Whangaehu Gorge, which is the valley that the Lahar's from Ruapehu's Eruptions normally travel. We also checked out the Tukino Ski field, which was nestled among a complex face of bluffs, gullies and ridges.

Chris peers into the Whangaehu Gorge.

Summits are Cathedral Rocks (L) and Te Heuheu (R)

Ringatoto's East Ridge, Grade 1+

From our vantage point over Tukino Ski field, we got our first views of the actual climb. From here, the crux looked to be actually gaining the ridge itself, through a small notch in a buttress.

Chris climbs the notch

The notch was interesting, with a section of loose sloping rocks to climb, that were covered in either sastrugi or soft snow.

Just above the rock step in the notch

Above the notch, we sidled Gendarmes on the north side, through sun baked snow and generally very solid rock. This section had lovely scrambling, without too much exposure.

Sidling Gendarmes on good rock

Easy but exposed rock climbing

Chris on top of the major gendarme on the ridge

We shared the route finding, scouting out ways round obstacles on either side of the ridge. At one point, Chris chose the right hand route and ended up on top of the gendarme, rather than finding a route around. Looked pretty cool, but he was understandably not that keen on descending back to the ridge down the (left hand) face.

Safely off the major Gendarme


"This is not the way..."

As the East Ridge met with the North, the ridge angled back to a mellow grade, but still with pretty good drops on either side (especially into the Whangaehu!). The wind was pretty fierce now, so we had to be quite careful on the last bit of ridge to the summit.

Summit!

I'd had sufficient adventure by the time we reached the top, so declined Chris' offer to keep heading up to the true summit of Mt Ruapehu (Tahurangi). We descended the easy, sastrugi covered slopes of the Wahiano Glacier. The upper basin was very straight forward, but through the middle section we had to weave around and route find through lots of small (and not so small) bluffs and gullies.

It was usually impossible to see from above if a line bluffed out or not, so we had to make a couple of U-turns at dead ends.

Descending the Upper Wahianoa Glacier

Once below the bluffs, it was an easy but tedious stroll down to the 'Round the Mountain Track' and the end of the route finding.

Lower Wahianoa River

We were reasonably tired by the time we reached the track, so it seem to take forever to get back to Rangipo Hut. Here we were treated to a hot brew by a family occupying the hut, which charged up the batteries enough to make the last 1.5hr amble back to the car go relatively quickly.

Snowy Friends at Rangipo Hut

Dominie Biv, Kaweka FP

Plan A was a trip to Taranaki NP, but a nasty storm forecast had us looking for drier options. The Kaweka's proved just the ticket, keeping pretty good weather for easter (apart from a few drips of drizzle on Good friday.

We began from 'The Lakes' carpark at Kuripapango and climbed on to the main Kaweka range via Rouge Spur. It was pretty windy on the tops, but visibility was good until we got drizzled on at Kaweka J itself.

Dominie Biv was empty when we turned up, but soon after 2 other parties stopped by, hoping to spend the night. One team camped, whilst the other pushed on to Studholme saddle.

Saturday was a mellow stroll to McIntosh Hut, other than the dip into Donalds stream gorge. Sunday was a short walk back over the Tutaekuri river and back to the cars.

Pip on the Main Kaweka Range beneath Kairahi Peak

Adding one rock to the Kaweka J memorial cairn


Dan and Dominie Biv
(its pretty cozy.. 1 and 1/2 bunks)

Pip descends Makahu Spur

Makahu Saddle Geocache

Crossing Donalds stream

Donalds Stream Gorge

McIntosh Hut

(8 Mats on sleeping platforms)

Inspecting the start of the Tutaekuri Gorge

I think there's a canyoning trip to be done here....

Mt Richmond, Richmond FP

Plan A was a canyoning descent of the drainage between Johnson Peak and Mt Richmond, but as Brendon and I approached along the road we had second thoughts.

Huge bluffs and hideous screes fed into the headwaters of the stream, just before the whole stream plunged over a 500m wall. We didn't have enough rope and had too much self preservation to try, so quickly the plan was ammended to a simple overnight tramp up to Mt Richmond.

We climbed through the forest and up to the summit of Mt Johnson. Peering down into the canyon we were quite pleased with the plan to abandon the descent.. Conditions were great for a day on the tops, light winds, clear skies and good vis.

From the top of Mt Richmond we could see Blenhiem and Abel Tasman at the same time, as well as the underrated extensive expanse of Mt Richmond Forest Park. The night was spent at Fell Hut, before returning straight back to the carpark under grey skies and biting cold winds.

The 'Canyon' stream at the track junction

Lovely track up to the Fell Tops

Off track rest spot

On the summit of Johnson, with Mt Fell behind

Enroute to Mt Richmond

Cruising down to Mt Fell Hut

Mt Fell Hut

Timms Creek