Mt Phipps, Arthurs Pass NP

Toine and I began our day at 3am in Chch for an ascent of the SW ridge of Mt Phipps. Conditions were virtually perfect, good freeze, cool temps, clear skies and light winds.

Toine and Mt Rolleston at dawn

Approaching the SW ridge 'Ramp'

Climbing the Ramp

Got up the ramp to the ridge without much bother then began along the mixed crest toward the summit.

At the col, onto the main ridge

Nice views to the west

Gettin' a little narrow..

We traversed off the spine of the ridge as the difficulty increased, then had to do some steep soloing and two pitches to get back onto the ridge near a notch.



Toine belays for our second pitch


From there it was a reasonably narrow snow arete all the way to the summit.

Able to take a picture during the widest bit of the snow traverse.


We turned back about 60m from the top by a small rock step that would have proven tricky. The wind had really got up by now and it required concentration to remain stable on the narrow ridge. I was pretty glad to get back to the slightly wider bit of ridge, but savoured the rest of the return journey. 11.5hrs round trip, 1390m vert.

Toine at our high point. Summit visible behind him.

Descending the upper ridge

Rapping from the notch

Strolling back to the ramp

Downclimbing the ramp