Sunday, May 9, 2010

Mt Technical West Ridge Grade 1+, Lewis Pass

Following hot on the heels of an article in Wilderness Magazine, a favourable weather forecast saw Murray, Andrew and I heading up to Deer Valley campground on Saturday afternoon.

The weather was terrible during the drive, but at 5am the next morning, only a light drizzle fell. As we climbed the light came and the drizzle went.

We emerged above the bushline to a bluebird day, with just a light westerly.

There was quite a bit of ridge to tramp before we got to the start of the scrambling route on Mt Technical. The climbing wasn't hard, but the exposure was enough that it kept us focussed. Most gendarmes could be sidled, but the occaisonal one had to be climbed directly. This was definately a climbing route and not a tramping route; most of the time a slip would result in death.

But the rock was generally very solid and the route kept progressing without any major problems. We were all very pleased and releived to be at the summit, where we enjoyed a great view and a bite to eat.

There was an easy route off the summit; an easy scree that lead almost directly to the top. Only the top 30m or so required concentration on the loose rock. We hiked the south screes back to the west ridge, climbed up and over at a spot we'd noted earlier.

The weather remained perfect and out of the wind it was deliciously warm. A fantastic climb, 10hrs car to car, noting that we moved quite slowly and carefully on the west ridge.


Clouds fill Cannibal Gorge from above Lewis Pass summit


Murry and Mt Technical
West ridge is on the right, with the meat of
the climb obscured by the North Ridge

Looking out to Springs Junction,
The Victoria Range and even the Paparoas in the far distance


Starting to get nice and scrambly


Andrew climbs a pinnacle directly


About to traverse round a block
Not hard climbing, but exposed enough to count..


Murray on the Summit Ridge, our route behind him on the skyline


Descending the easy summit scree
Trig visible at the top


Wandering home above the Maruia Valley


Andrew about to descend back to the Highway

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