One Long Day for the Tongarirro Northern Circuit

What to do with your last spare day of leave and great weather? Why not go for a walk? Why not go for a long walk?

I was originally keen to get up Mitre in the Tararua’s as a long day tramp, but strong wind warnings dissuaded me. It wasn’t until about 9pm that I decided on attempting a one day circumnavigation of Mt Ngauruhoe…

Normally taking 2-3 days according to most tramping books, I figured I could fast pack the whole thing in about 12 hours. Fresh from blitzing the track times on the Rees Dart, I was confident that I could do the same on my home turf.

Waking at 5am, I stumbled around for lack of sleep but eventually managed to make my getaway. Such was my incoherence that I forgot any tramping shorts and had to wear my cotton cargo shorts. Pausing only for fuel and food at National Park, I was on the Track at 0855h.

My welcome companions for this mission were IPOD and walking poles. Without either, I would have foundered and failed to complete my task.

Starting out from Whakapapa Village, I resolved to make it an anti-clockwise circuit. Rationale being that if I was behind schedule at Waihohonu Hut, I’d have at least visited the Tama Lakes, which were one of the few major points of interest I’d yet to visit in the area.

The track was pretty cut up in places, with deep trenches and multiple social trails avoiding the worst of it. At the Tama lakes I kept to the main track till I was in a position to see the Lower Lake before powering on. I started to get a few hot spots on my feet; not a good sign this early in the day, so I paused and took the time to tape them all up as best I could.

At Waihohonu hut I sculled down a liter of Raro an inhaled a couple of sandwiches. Happy to have cut the track time neatly in half, I wanted to keep up with the pace.

Doing the math as I climbed north from the hut, I figured that I could do a 10hr circuit at this pace. Switching my cool dri shirt for a cotton T, I enjoyed the extra cooling ability of the cotton in the sweltering dry heat.

Out east from Tongariro I marveled at the barren terrain. The ground seemed even more arid and inhospitable than on the western slopes, with barely any vegetation and no water in the streams. The land held a beauty all of its own, in wonderful contrast to our normally lush mountains.

Up above the Waihohonu medial moraine, I met a European woman who was quite taken aback when I replied to her query as to where I was coming from and heading to. She expressed grave concerns for my sanity and ability to complete the circuit and was almost condescending in manner. I had no time to justify myself, argue or even listen, so I smiled and excused myself.

Again, arriving at the next hut in just a shade over half the track time I was pleased to be on schedule. Oturere marked the halfway point, any failure from here would be a failing upwards. I was just plonking down my pack and making a casual hello to the people on the porch, when I realized that those people happened to be Woody and Elisha..

Turns out they were on exactly the same mission as I, if only begun in the opposite direction. It was uncanny to meet them exactly at the halfway point, having come from the same town at about the same time. We chatted, exchanged some food and well wishes then continued on our way.

Heading west from Oturere, again I was enthralled by the bizarre terrain and incredible rock formations that passed by me. Soon I was at the base of my first significant climb, ready to see how much energy remained in my limbs. As I climbed I had to dig deep; the previous 26 kilometers had eaten well into my reserves. Picking intermediate rest goals and doggedly continuing upward, I made it to Emerald Lakes without too much bother.

Resting and eating for just a moment, it felt comforting to be on familiar ground. However, the next section would prove to be one of the hardest of the day. The slog up and over Red crater was just soul destroying. The loose scree, hot sun, sulfurous gasses and tired limbs all conspired against me. I barely smiled as other Trampers skipped effortlessly down hill. Reaching the top seemed to take forever and all it did was begin the painful hobble down the other side.

The way down to south crater was treacherous, so I took a steep scree run detour straight down the fall line into red crater, no doubt saving me a good amount of time and energy. Part way down, I took a reasonable fall, which caused my camelbak hose to detach from the bladder, sending valuable water into my pack and down my back. Time was ticking on and I was fully aware that I still had a third of the circuit to do.


Descending the devils staircase was painful and slow. The hotspots on my feet had long ago turned to blisters and the ‘track’ was steep, sharp and occasionally loose. Boardwalks of the Mangatepopo valley seemed blissful in comparison. Drawing near to Mangatepopo Hut, my water leak had left an embarrassingly shaped wet patch on the front of my light brown cotton shorts. Trying to act as though I hadn’t just wet myself, I detoured slightly to the huts water tank for a refill. There I watched in disbelief as a girl in full purple and white polka dot cotton pajamas nonchalantly brushed her teeth..

Still 9 long tortuous kilometers to go. I’m starting to remember what it feels like to wish you’d never started. The final stretch through to Whakapapa was badly eroded and slow to walk in many places. My batteries were really starting to fade and I began to take rests occasionally.

Crossing gully after gully, I scanned the horizon for the final gully I had to crest before the finish was in view. When the Chateau came into view, the first smile I’d warn for many hours beamed across my face. The last few k’s to the end were horrible, as I had to force myself to keep plodding no matter how good it felt to sit and rest.

I arrived at my car sore and tired. Slightly satisfied, but mostly sore, tired and confused as to why I’d begun in the first place. 10hrs 30mins for a 3 day tramp. Though I’m confident that I chose the worst direction to do it in..

Walk Stats (track times in brackets)

Whakapapa to Waihohonu Hut 14.7km 2:45h (5:30h)

Waihohonu to Oturere Hut 7km 1:50h (3hrs)

Oturere to Emerald Lakes 4.3km 0:54h ( 2hrs)

Emerald to Mangatepopo Hut 6km 2hrs (4hrs)

Mangatepopo to Whakapapa 9km 2:25hrs (3hrs)

Total 39.7km, 10:30h including stops, 1645m of ascent (and the same descent)