Going for a Tramping trip was about my only option being a singleton. I guess I could have gone for a drive around and explored some other areas, but I figured a bit of a walk would be good for the soul and would clear the mind.
It was a pretty simple choice to go for the Rees Dart. Easily accessed by Track net, well trodden, not too hard and with a glowing reputation.
Before meeting the shuttle bus at Glenorchy, I chatted with a chap from
On our way with a geriatric driver and rickety old bus, we drove up the Rees valley to the end of the public access. Here the track follows farmland for about an hour before reaching the National Park boundary.
I decided to put the pace on, just to see how I’d go. Passing all the other trampers (many with absurdly large packs) I relished the open farm land that afforded me endless views of the mountain peaks above me. Earnslaw dominated the view to the west, whilst a number of potential Canyoning streams caught my attention to the east.
Once at the National Park boundary, the trail meandered neatly through delightful Beech forest and through the occasional grassy clearing. Soon the track emerged gently from the bush line and sidled around a number of gnarled side streams. The wind had really risen, forcing me to lean into the hills and power up the track. Before long I found myself the first arrival to Shelter Rock Hut.
The bunkrooms were something else, more like a backpackers than a mountain hut. Eventually the rest of the busload began to trickle in. Most of them looked knackered and with the size of their packs, I’m not surprised. The stark contrast between hut life at Homer (with some of NZ’s most talented climbers) to hut life here on a tourist tramp (where people were carrying 3 pairs of spare pants…) I made myself dinner in the cooking area, but didn’t really interact much; I just felt so disconnected with these people…
03 Jan 08
The weather forecast called for morning rain and we weren’t disappointed. Yesterday I’d halved the track time, so was in no hurry to do the ‘4-6hrs’ in the rain. Lying in my bunk listening to my MP3 player, one lady asked “Are you feeling ill?” I just smiled and told her my patient tactics..
Eventually the rain eased a little and I gave into my boredom. Soon I was zooming up the trail in my polypro, nearly at a run. My fast pace kept me warm enough in the wet and windy conditions and soon had me passing my hut mates who were in varying states of trudgery.
I meandered upstream through the schist screes toward Rees Saddle. Above, I admired the huge slabs of Mt Cunningham and wondered how much pro there wouldn’t be up there. At Rees Saddle I paused for a photo and a quick survey of the surrounds before continuing down Snowy Creek. It really was a neat area up there, but the rain and wind combined with the downhill had me hurrying to keep warm.
The last hut mate that I passed was the oldest.. A bloke in his late 60s early 70’s I’d imagine, complete with old school external frame backpack. He was doing pretty well indeed! Not far from the hut I spent a while photographing a large Weta that had decided to rest on the track. After my photo session I removed her to a safer off-track location.
Perhaps this track should be renamed “The Cairn Track” every 10-20m an obvious and slightly obnoxious cairn marked the way, even through the obvious sections. Seems its lowest common denominator stuff, but I really think it spoilt the natural beauty of the place.
The rain ceased just as I neared a well occupied Dart Hut. Claiming one of the few remaining bunks, I had a late lunch out in the new sunshine and admired the views that were unfolding as the clouds receded.
It was only a bit after 2pm, I was already at the Hut and the weather was almost clear. Stuff sitting around here going insane I thought to myself. Resting a while longer in the sun, I eventually stuffed some semi dry stuff in my pack and strode off for a walk up the Upper Dart.
I originally aimed to see how far I got before time and/or lack of enthusiasm forced me to return. To believe the track times, I was looking at a 8-10hr return journey to Cascade Saddle, but I backed myself to halve that with a bit of effort. After crossing a few moderate streams and loving the great weather and neat views I resolved to push for the saddle.
Rounding the corner of the valley, I caught a glimpse of the terminal moraine. A complete change from the terrain I’d already covered, I looked forward to the chance to do something quite different. The track bashed its way through the loose moraine debris for some time before climbing aggressively to a grassy bench that would have marked the top of the glacier at its zenith. From here I looked down over 200m and marveled about how much ice there once was.
Thinking I was nearly at the Saddle, I got a bit of a shock once round the following corner. Despite the great views it was feeling a little like masochism, but regardless I continued on. Finally I reached Cascade Saddle and set about enjoying the vista that I’d worked hard for. My eyes traced up French Ridge to the Bonar Glacier and up to Mt Aspiring itself. I looked at the Dart Neve and some of its Cirque peaks Mts Maori and Wahine. It was a glorious panorama and well worth the effort.
Looking at my watch and cognoscente of my solo status, I didn’t linger long. With the change of light, a cool breeze sprang up that had me reaching for my soft shell. Once well clear of the Moraine and the worst of the rock fall danger, I allowed myself to listen to MP3’s as I powered home for a 9pm dinner.
04 Jan 08
Feeling just a little sore from yesterday’s long walk, I resolved on different tactics for the remainder of my voyage. Given the daylight I had and the track times, I took my watch off and tried to see how slowly I could walk. The pace I arrived at was of the ‘stroll in the park’ variety and allowed my head to swivel constantly to enjoy the views that surrounded me.
I rested and snacked often, slept on hot rocks occasionally and still arrived within an hour of the track time. Sandflies were the only reason that I wasn’t able to enjoy the evening outside as I cooked my dinner. That night I engaged the others in a bit more conversation and enjoyed tales from a Finnish couple living in
05 Jan 08
Getting away from the hut at a reasonably early hour for the first time of the trip, mist still hung over many of the flats downstream of the hut. I walked and talked for a while with a mum and daughter before making my own pace once again.
Climbing over Sandy Bluff was slightly interesting, with a few ladders and some decent drop offs. Downstream of the bluff I found a spot by the river to sit and ponder. Soon I was watching Jet Boats from Dart Safaris zoom up and down river.
The final sections of track were garden path in quality, but gave me a good chance to spy a huge Canyon coming out of
Arriving back in Glenorchy I got an ice-cream and soft drink before driving back to Queenstown to spend my final night in the bustle of town.
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