Chucky's Adventures: Cordillera Real Trekking, Bolivia

Plan A was to do the Choro Trek, a 2-3 day trip descending from the summit of the Cordillera Real at 4700m, down to the Jungle of the Yungas Valley at 1200m. But after enduring the Death Road experience and thinking about the 9 days we spent in the Peruvian Jungle, we opted for something different.

We spent 4 days traversing the southern slopes of the Royal Range, doing a section of the 10 trip that crosses the whole range from Illampu (6485m) to Illimani (6462m). The drive up from La Paz to the start of the trek was surprisingly tame. Already on the Altiplano at 4000m, we wove slowly up gentle foothills and past lakes to the start at about 4500m.

With our Guide Ivan, Cook Maggie and Arriero Guido, we strolled south, skirting the foothills but with reasonable views of the main range behind. During the 1st, 2nd and 4th day, the walking was very straightforward and not super interesting. Having been a bit spoiled from our Huayhuash Circuit in Peru, the views were nice, but not mind blowing. However, day 3 was one to remember.

Beginning from our lakeside camp, we headed directly toward the main range, climbing morraine to a glacial lake below Cerro Condorirri´s south face. With a backdrop of icefields and towers, we scrambled up through a rock band and trudged our way to a pass with great views of the neve at 5100m. From here, we slogged up a gully to the summit of Austria Peak at 5300m.

From the modest summit, we could see as far as the Peruvian section of Lake Titicaca, the whole cordillera, from Illampu to Illimani, and even La Paz to the south east. The Condorirri Massif was the closest and most imposing terrain and we spent quite a while enjoying the view.

Ivan spoke excellent english and was a pleasant and knowledgeable guide. He enjoyed helping me with my spanish, as well as telling us all about Bolivia.

4 days went quickly, though we did have a good wait at the road end when the transport got lost on the way to pick us up...